FRANCOIS GUILLOT/AFP/Getty Images

A model presents a creation by Belgian designer Kris Van Assche during the autumn/winter 2009 ready-to-wear collection show in Paris, on March 4, 2009.  The collection was a study in casual, urban looking minimalism and stood out  with its treatment of the model’s faces.  A smear of charcoal covered the crown of the head and created a smokey veil just below the eyes.  The human imperfection of the grey stroke illuminated the organic elements of the outfits and evoked the feeling that these women had survived trauma and were walking proud.

I’d like to imagine the decision to use this earthy makeup technique was made in the 11th hour, spawned by the recollection of last weeks Christian observance of Ash Wednesday.  You know what day it is no matter what faith you follow because you will see crosses made in ash on people’s foreheads.

FRANCOIS GUILLOT/AFP/Getty Images – LUIS LIWANAG/AFP/Getty Images

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DAMIEN MEYER/AFP/Getty Images

Models are are seen wearing the creations of Frankie Morello Fall/Winter 2009-2010 ready-to-wear collection on February 26, 2009 during the Women’s fashion week in Milan.   The Italian designer, Morello seemed to be referencing styles from Samurai simplicity to the highly structured Elizabethan Ruff, in a mostly modern framework.  The great gem of the sea, the pearl, was a uniting force and decorated wrists, necks and accessories.  The architecture of cloth took center stage as all garments, from the sweet ribbon candy satin dresses to the plain expanses of floor-length minimalism.  See the full collection and some possible inspirations here.

GIUSEPPE CACACE/AFP/Getty Image – DAMIEN MEYER/AFP/Getty Images

DAMIEN MEYER/AFP/Getty Images -  Bridgeman Library/Getty Images

GIUSEPPE CACACE/AFP/Getty Images -  Felice Beato/Getty Images

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Model, Agyness Deyn, walks down the catwalk during the House of Holland show at Quaglino’s as part of London Fashion Week  2009 on February 24th.  Deyn and her fellow cat-walkers are Benjamin Moore’s dream come true as they display color gradations a la your neighborhood hardware store or Pantone GoeGuide.  Always equipped with a sense of humor and an eye for pop, Henry Holland puts a smile on our face yet again.

BEN STANSALL/AFP/Getty Images – Justin Hutchinson/Photonica/Getty Images

Simon James/WireImage

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TIMOTHY A. CLARY/AFP/Getty Images

Something was afoot at the Brian Reyes’ 2009 Fall Show at Bryant Park during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in New York.   Rachel Bilson and Ivanka Trump watched a number of models gracefully bite the dust on the runway.  Hiccups aside, the show was a soothing flow of up-swept mystery girls with a bohemian flair.   The collection showed an unusual but totally apropos hybrid of organic ease and uptown sophistication.  The palette was neutral give or take a blue, light green or a berry shade.  Fabrics were textural in dimension or optic depth using batik, satin and beading.

The extent to which the models lost shoes was so extreme that one might have thought it was purposeful and what a joy if it had been!  Theater on the runway indeed.  In the last round, models did without heels in what must have been a spontaneous decision that came off as a celebratory gesture.  See it all here.

Andrew H. Walker/Getty Images for IMG

Andrew H. Walker/Getty Images for IMG – Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for IMG

Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for IMG

Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for IMG

TIMOTHY A. CLARY/AFP/Getty Images

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Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images

Models walk the runway at the Oscar De La Renta Fall 2009 fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week on February 18, 2009 in New York City.   Having outfitted first ladies and the like, Oscar De La Renta is not known for his youthful sprite, but the short hemlines and sleek shapes that pounced the runway yesterday were fresh and glamorous at the same time.  Hair and makeup were crucial in modernizing the look.  A rounded up-sweep defied gravity without looking stuffy.  Flattened leopard prints were geometric rather than organic and were peppered throughout.  Spicy tones, which have been savoured by the Dominican designer throughout his career colored in blocks.  Metallics were anything but garish, used as belts and on shoes.

At the bottom you can see that De La Renta is no stranger to animal prints and saturated colors.  He used both themes in past collections debuting in the mid 1990’s.

Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images

Fernanda Calfat/Getty Images – Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images

JON LEVY/AFP/Getty Images -  Evan Agostini/Liaison/Getty Images

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Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for IMG

Fur flies on the runway at the Dennis Basso Fall 2009 fashion show during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in the Promenade at Bryant Park on February 17, 2009 in New York City. Fur is a polarizing topic, so the front row wasn’t exactly brimming with celebrities, but Star Jones braved the possibility of PETA protesters outside Bryant Park wearing a blond coat.  The key people were there, such as Anna Wintour and fashion editor Adrien Field (below), both clad in the controversial material.  Basso’s collection managed to make pelts look weightless by pairing fur with transparent fabrics.  Bucket hats, belts and vests created modern silhouettes.

Andrew H. Walker/Getty Images for IMG – Kristian Dowling/Getty Images for IMG

Jason Kempin/Getty Images

Derek Warburton timed his appearance at Fashion Week perfectly with The PITA Peltdown At NY Fashion Week Presented by DerekLovesShopping at Bryant Park.  Warburton handed out I heart PITA t-shirts and pita bread from a converted hot dog cart to curious onlookers.   Where do you stand on the wearing of fur?  Maverick or murder?

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Randy Brooke/WireImage/Getty Images – Kristian Dowling/Getty Images

Marc Jacobs presented his Fall ‘09 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York February 16th with a pop that raised some eyebrows.  Amidst the uniformly understated, stark, restrained and otherwise ascetic collections that have swept the runways since Friday, Jacob’s women walked tall in aggressive colors, shapes, and textures.   Jacob’s defiance to conform to recession-era trends could be seen as a call to be strong and carry on or as an arrogant gesture of self indulgence.

Randy Brooke/WireImage/Getty Images – Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images

It is true that Jacobs has been making transition in his personal style from a quirky bookish man-child to flashy sex symbol.  In some respects the transitions in his fashion collections have been paralleling his own.  Though his work has always had  heavy vintage inspiration, the cutesy, innocent  elements of past seasons referencing the 1960s and 70’s have been all but been banished in exchange for the stoic power of the 1980’s.

See how his look has changed since 2004 with subtle steps:  contacts, a deeper tan, bigger jewelry and more skin.  The fall collection for 2009 might simply be an expression of  a personal vision, unwavering in the face of a gloomy global climate.

Chris Moore/Catwalking/Getty Images – Jamie McCarthy/WireImage/Getty Images

Dimitrios Kambouris/WireImage/Getty Images – Bryan Bedder/Getty Images

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