Comedy On The Runway
A familiar character paid a visit to the spring/summer 2008 runways at Paris Fashion Week, earlier in October. Harlequin was back. It is said that the length of hemlines predicts the markets rise or fall but what does a nod to comedy reflect if not simply an embrace of geometry? Harlequin and his counterpart Pierrot are characters from commedia dell’arte, a theatrical tradition with origins in 15th century Italy. The two characters are clowns with contrasting natures. Pierrot is naive and melancholy, while Harlequin is a nimble trickster.
Viktor & Rolf amplified the aesthetics of both Pierrot and Harlequin in their
Harlequin tinged fashion pops up every now and again, most recognizably in the mod 1960s, but the 1980s hosted its share of appearances by the merrymaker. Two decades ago, both Vivienne Westwood and Gianfranco Ferre for Christian Dior (below left) incorporated harlequin-ism into their collections. What do these icons of comedy say about us this time around?
Nicolas Lancret/Bridgeman Archives/Getty Images, Gerard Julian/AFP/Getty Images